Chasing the Midnight Sun Along Norway’s Arctic Coastline

As I drifted silently into Norway’s majestic Trollfjord, flanked by towering mountains, their peaks bathed in golden sunlight, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder. It was almost midnight, yet it felt like the middle of the day. The midnight sun, a truly remarkable phenomenon, stretches one day into another, making it easy to lose track of time.

I had the privilege of experiencing the “polar day” as I journeyed along Norway’s stunning coastline aboard one of Hurtigruten’s ships, MS Nordlys. The ship called at 19 ports in just four days, offering a wealth of opportunities to explore and take in the breathtaking scenery. The only challenge was finding time to sleep, as the night never came!

My journey began in the beautiful coastal town of Bodø, the first European Capital of Culture north of the Arctic Circle. I wish I had more time to soak up the vibrant atmosphere in a town that basks in the glow of the midnight sun from the beginning of June until mid-July.

As I watched the sun dip below a distant mountain at the stroke of midnight, it reappeared exactly one minute later, casting a golden glow over the snow-capped mountains and rippling waters of the fjord. It was a sight to behold. The midnight sun crept behind a mountain peak at the stroke of midnight, and I couldn’t help but take hundreds of photographs.

The next day, the clouds had descended, shrouding the midnight sun in a thick blanket of grey. But it didn’t detract from the natural beauty of the region. That afternoon, I boarded the MS Nordlys ship and eagerly awaited my trip north.

The first port of call was Svolvær, at the heart of the scenic Lofoten archipelago. Sandwiched between the mountains and the sea, Svolvær is an iconic destination for those wanting to experience the midnight sun during the summer months and the northern lights during the winter. Although the sun remained hidden behind a blanket of clouds during our visit, I had pinned my hopes on it clearing up that night so we could welcome in the day of the summer solstice at the stroke of midnight, under the midnight sun.

As we sailed into the magnificent Trollfjord, surrounded by steep mountain peaks and cascading waterfalls, the midnight sun shone brightly, casting a golden hue upon the very tips of the highest peaks. I stayed out until at least 2 a.m., soaking in the breathtaking scenery and welcoming in the “longest day of the year”.

For the rest of the trip, I felt like I was playing an elaborate game of cat and mouse with the midnight sun. It would make the occasional appearance, bathing the landscape in a glorious light, before dipping back behind a cloud and out of view. This kept me entertained throughout the short trip and made me feel like the chase for the midnight sun was well and truly on.

But then, when I was preparing to depart from Kirkenes, the midnight sun surrendered, greeting us with pristine blue skies and dazzling sunlight that stretched through the night and into the next day.

I’ll never forget my time exploring Norway’s coastline under the midnight sun. The way the landscape changed when the rich rays of sunlight peeked through the clouds and how the snow-capped mountains reflected the sun’s rays, glowing gold under the midnight sun, has given me a new appreciation for our home star.

The midnight sun is caused by Earth’s axial tilt, which results in one hemisphere being angled towards the sun and the other away from it. During the June solstice, the North Pole tilts towards the sun, leading to the phenomenon of the midnight sun in the northern polar region. Conversely, the southern polar region experiences 24 hours of darkness, known as the polar night.

The endless days provided ample opportunities to explore, experience, and fully appreciate the stunning Norwegian coast in all its glory. The big problem was finding time to sleep, but that’s what the flight home is for!

On day two of the voyage, we sailed up to Tromsø, the third-largest city north of the Arctic Circle, and had a few hours to explore the “Gateway to the Arctic”, also fondly known as “The Paris of the North”. Tromsø is a vibrant university town with a wealth of outdoor and indoor activities that will keep any intrepid traveler entertained, whether you’re heading north for the midnight sun or to experience the northern lights during the winter months.

We visited the magnificent Arctic Cathedral and stood in awe of its impressive glass mosaic window, and headed to “Full Steam”, the world’s northernmost coastal museum to learn about the region’s maritime history and traditions of the Sea Sami. The Sami people are Indigenous people of northern Europe who live in Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia.

The highlight for me that day was taking the cable car up Mount Storsteinen, 1,378 feet above sea level. Although cloudy, the views were breathtaking, with mountains and fjords stretching as far as the eye could see.

The following day, we ventured up to Norway’s northern frontier, Honningsvåg, home to the North Cape, where a globe monument marks the top of continental Europe. I decided to take part in the birdwatching safari that departed the Viking fishing village of Gjesvær and explored the nearby islands of Gjesværstappan. I was thrilled to see puffins, as well as other seabird colonies, including razor bills, gannets, and guillemots.

Life onboard was warm and welcoming, with a capacity of just 590 people and 471 beds, MS Nordlys is the perfect size for those wishing to embrace the relaxing ambiance with like-minded individuals. I particularly enjoyed sitting in the panoramic lounge with floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing me to sit and watch the world go by.

The Coastal Expedition team ran hour-long seminars, which were a combination of talks on the local history and culture of the regions we would be visiting, along with some local music and a brief Norwegian language lesson. These seminars were great fun and a perfect way to introduce us to the many different parts of Norway that we would visit during the voyage.

As the Norwegians like to say, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes.” Therefore, preparation is key! I found packing for my prior winter adventure much easier as it was simply a case of throwing in everything and anything warm and layering up! But the weather was far more varied during the summer voyage. There were days when you could sit out on the deck in jeans and a t-shirt, and others when you had to wear multiple layers and sturdy outerwear to prevent the biting wind from piercing through.

The food onboard Hurtigruten is also second to none. They take great pride in Norway’s Coastal Kitchen, which collaborates with 50 local farms, bakeries, and producers across the country. Guests not only get to see the Norwegian coast but taste it too! From melt-in-your-mouth cod to award-winning cheeses, there’s no shortage of culinary delights.

For anyone wishing to experience the weirdness of the midnight sun or the unbelievable beauty of the northern lights, look no further than a voyage with Hurtigruten. The mighty ships are an iconic feature of the Norwegian coastline and bring you closer to the unique beauty and culture of Norway’s coast than anyone else.

Historical Context:

• The concept of the midnight sun has been observed and recorded by ancient cultures in the Arctic regions, including the Sami people, who have lived in northern Europe for thousands of years.
• The phenomenon is caused by the Earth’s axial tilt, which results in one hemisphere being angled towards the sun and the other away from it.
• The midnight sun is most pronounced during the summer solstice, when the North Pole is tilted towards the sun, and the polar night occurs during the winter solstice, when the North Pole is tilted away from the sun.
• The Hurtigruten shipping company has been operating along Norway’s coastline since 1893, providing a unique way for tourists to experience the country’s stunning natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Summary in Bullet Points:

• The article describes a journey along Norway’s Arctic coastline aboard the MS Nordlys ship, operated by Hurtigruten.
• The ship calls at 19 ports in four days, offering opportunities to explore and take in the breathtaking scenery.
• The midnight sun is a unique phenomenon that occurs during the summer solstice, when the sun remains visible at midnight.
• The author experiences the midnight sun while sailing through the Trollfjord and exploring the Lofoten archipelago.
• The ship visits several ports, including Bodø, Svolvær, Tromsø, and Honningsvåg, each with its own unique culture and natural beauty.
• The author participates in activities such as birdwatching, visiting the Arctic Cathedral, and taking a cable car ride to the top of Mount Storsteinen.
• The ship’s crew provides seminars on local history and culture, and the food onboard is sourced from local farms and producers.
• The article concludes that a voyage with Hurtigruten is the perfect way to experience the midnight sun and the beauty of Norway’s coastline.