Skincare Myths Debunked: Red Flags to Watch Out For

Dr. Sunil Sanghi, a 57-year-old senior consultant in dermatology, studied medicine at the Armed Forces Medical College in Pune. He is a fellow of the American Association of Dermatology and enjoys playing lawn tennis and table tennis.

Beyond Just Skin: The condition of our skin reflects our overall health. Yellow, blotchy, or sallow skin can indicate underlying health issues. Diseases like hepatitis often first appear as itching or rashes on the skin. The pursuit of beauty has made us pay even more attention to our skin.

The Look of Health: Healthy skin is smooth, warm, hydrated, and has an even tone. There are five main skin types: oily, dry, normal, combination, and sensitive. Each type has unique characteristics and needs that affect your complexion. A balance of oil and moisture results in blemish-free, smooth skin with fine pores. While genetics play a big role in skin type, factors like skincare routine, sunlight, temperature, stress, hormones, smoking, alcohol, and exercise also impact it.

Signs of Trouble: Flaky skin, cracks, rashes, or noticeable changes in hair and nails can be signs that something is wrong.

Normal Changes: Skin naturally becomes thinner over time, with a loss of volume, especially in the cheeks, and bags forming under the eyes. Aging effects on the face are inevitable. Newborns have delicate skin, teenagers often have acne, and the elderly have wrinkles. Stretch marks can appear during pregnancy or rapid weight changes, and despite marketing claims, they won’t go away. These marks result from the middle layer of the skin being stretched beyond its capacity, causing tears in its fibers.

What’s Unacceptable: Severe acne leading to scars, rapid wrinkling, and loss of volume, or early baldness.

Indian Skin: Indian skin is thicker than Caucasian skin, more prone to pigmentation, and less prone to melanoma, the most dangerous type of skin cancer. The pigment in the skin is beneficial.

Male Skin: Male skin is about 20% thicker than female skin, with more collagen and tightness. Men are more prone to infections, while women have more pigmentary disorders, allergic diseases, and hair problems. (The scalp is also skin.)

Where We Live: External factors like low temperature and high altitude can affect our skin. For instance, low temperatures make it harder for the skin to retain moisture, leading to dryness or itchiness.

Diet: A diet that supports overall health also promotes good skin health. Nutritious foods like fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and healthy fats are good for the skin. One of the biggest misconceptions is the role of food allergens in skin conditions and certain food practices associated with acne (eating sour foods, for example, does not cause acne).

Follow a skincare regimen with a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Read the ingredients in these products and use them according to your skin type, weather, and external environment.

Common Indian Skin Problems: Acne (clogging of hair follicles under the skin), eczema (inflammation of the skin), psoriasis (build-up of cells causing scaly, itchy skin), fungal infections, and hair disorders. Increasing pollution and temperature can trigger or worsen skin problems like rashes.

No Cure for Skin Problems? This is a misconception. With rapid advances in available therapies, most chronic skin conditions like psoriasis can be treated, ensuring a good quality of life. Both cure and continuous management work in various skin diseases, just like in other chronic conditions like diabetes and hypertension.

Why So Many Steroids? Dermatologists use steroids when needed because the benefits outweigh the risks. The problem is self-medication, with over-the-counter prescriptions, especially topical steroids, being misused. The current epidemic of fungal infections is caused by the use of OTC medication, which addresses some obvious problems but aggravates the real cause. For some conditions like anaphylaxis—a life-threatening inflammation—steroids can be life-saving. The only skin regime you need: Good cleaning in the morning, followed by a toner (to remove leftover dirt), moisturizer, and sunscreen. At night, use a cleanser, toner, retinoids, and a moisturizer.

Unfair Fairness: Allergic reactions are very common with the long-term use of over-the-counter pigmentation creams. These can lead to untreatable pigmentation and red, sensitive skin that persists lifelong.

Expensive is Not Best: It is a myth that expensive creams can keep your skin young forever. The skincare industry is huge, with significant reach on social media. But no skin cream can protect indefinitely against aging. It is better to visit a dermatologist once to understand the correct regimen for your skin rather than spending money on industry-driven products.

Skin Fads: Trends like the recent Korean glass skin trend only promote misinformation for a ‘perceived’ perfect skin. No one should cultivate false hopes as there has been no scientific analysis of ingredients in products that promise the unbelievable.

Natural is Not Always So: Products marketed as ‘natural’ are popular among consumers, but being natural does not mean they are effective or safe. Though comparatively expensive, they offer no additional benefit over cheaper medicated products. Aloe vera, for example, has been used for centuries for its health, beauty, and medicinal properties. Though usually safe, it may cause allergic reactions in some people. This is true of all products.

Look Out: For skin products that are healthy and good for the environment. Read and understand labels. Avoid parabens, for instance, which upset the skin’s environment. Look for detailed information on the ingredients used. Organic products might not have lab-made substances, but colors and fragrances can also cause allergies. A sunscreen, for instance, is useless if it does not have zinc oxide and can, in fact, have harmful ingredients, such as salicylate.

Going Too Far: The influence of social media in promoting the use of expensive, anti-aging products at a young age.

Myths: Chocolate and oily food cause acne. Anti-bacterial soaps are good for the skin. Natural and organic products are a better choice. All sun exposure is bad for the skin. The higher the SPF, the better the sunscreen.

Some Red Flags: Fever with rash, painful swelling of the skin, change in existing moles, loss of sensation, or fluid-filled eruptions.

Do Not Self-Medicate: Any self-medication should be stopped immediately. For example, we are currently experiencing an epidemic of fungal infections caused by OTC steroids. Self-medication with antibiotics is also leading to significant antibiotic resistance.

Traps: The quest for ever-youthful skin leading to the misuse of anti-aging creams. Hair oils that claim to cure balding. Complete cure of psoriasis, vitiligo, and eczema with alternative medicine. Quick-fix botox, bleach, or skin peels.

Tips: Have a balanced diet with adequate fruits, green leafy vegetables, and healthy fats in the form of nuts and flax seeds. Follow a skincare regimen with a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Carefully read the ingredients in these products and use them according to your skin type, weather, and external environment. Avoid stress and smoking, and exercise adequately. Essential oils can have some benefits, but which ones to use should be individually determined. Such oils in heavy concentration can lead to skin irritation and worse.